Northern Sardinia

In february 2019 i decided to have a bike-recovery mission. After my experience in Cinto and a makeshift transfer across Mouth of Bonifacio, i abandoned my B-Twin to his fate for 6 months. The sardinian cellars are strangely dry, so i found no dust when i came back.
I took advantage of a little holiday I had with my brother and her girlfriend Ilenia in Palau (OT)

• Path

Date Start – End Length – Climb Total time Avg speed
2.24.19 Palau – Porto Torres 104 km – 1000 m 5:00 20 km/h

• What to visit

Alghero is a middle-sized city of abott 45.000 inhabitants. Part of its population descends from Catalan conquerors and nowadays it’s possible to listen to a spanish-inspired local language in the streets.In 2012 it was the 10th most visited city by tourists in Italy.
Rampants are made by yellowish sandstone. They are part of flysch, a sedimentary deposit consisting of thin beds of shale or marl alternating with coarser strata such as sandstone or conglomerate.
Coltelli Giagu (not “Giagiu”) offers a museum about local cutlery and equipment for agriculture. It’s not big as well as not expensive.
The most interesting part is the workshop, where it’s possible to see how the hand-made knives are currently made. Below 150€ is not a real Pattada knife.
For some remark about steel, you can visit this page.
Our intention was to visit the “Grotte di Nettuno” near Alghero. About 20′ after the bike shop we reached our destination. These 2 millions years old caves were CLOSED at our arrival. We didn’t have the pleasure of climbing the 600 steps for the sea-level placed entrance of the cave. Maybe next time.

• What to eat

In this season sometimes the time passes slowly. A good appetizer is the perfect way for filling in that 1-2 hours before dinner.
The dinner deserves a good mention: the Vecchio Mulino. restaurant in Arzachena has one of the best “porcetto” (typical sardinian receipt for cooking little pigs) in the area. The price is good and also the wines they propose.
The owner of Al Tuguri restaurant, where we had lunch, told us Alghero is the most beautiful city in Sardinia. In my opinion it’s plausible: the atmosphere you can breath here is a mix of ancient times and modern everyday life. The catapult and the old walls nearby the harbour, mixed with the orange-based colors of mediterrean sea, give the touch of old times, while modern buildings and pavements contribute to make Alghero a modern city.
Of course the receipt is not so easy to obtain.

• Hot to get here

The flights in that period are very cheap, and also the ferries. Not to mention the cars: the hybrid Toyota Corolla we rent i remember it was lower than 10 €/day. Of course the gasoline is on our behalf, but it must make us think about the possibilities of the car sharing. In 3 people owning a car became more wasteful than renting one.

• Bike Trip

The wind. A strange element. This flow of mixed gases in a large scale has always had a strange effect on me.
A lot of people dislike, but i think it’s great. A good gust in your face is able to chenge your day, maybe giving to you the right charge to finish a 1000 m, or simply making you forget the exaggerated heat of the late afternoon.
When i was a kid, in some endless day passed dozing in the rubber dinghy, i used to stop my idleness (a feeling sometimes escorting me) and start to daydream about a lot of different things. How to became a famous soccer player, a singer, or simply accomplishing Pokemon silver.
The trigger was turning my head towards the provenience of the wind: no sound and an enjoyable touch.

But let’s come back to Sardinia: after a short check i realized that i was out of inner tube for my tyres. Bad error. The tyres weren’t so intact. Buying a complete tyre in Sardinia is quite expensive compare to Amazon, so i bought 3 inner tubes for being safe ☺. Thank to Giulio Spanedda Eredi.
That morning the wind was still blowing hard when I woke up. I actually hadn’t slept much. I was nervous about the weather forecast the day before. Damn, I wasn’t ready for that situation. First long winter bike ride, and immediately an unexpected event.
I chose to avoid the first 20 km of the journey by being transported by car. At “Santa Teresa” I reassembled my bike, said goodbye to my brother, and started pedaling. after 10 minutes I had a perforated tire (see photo). Would I have arrived in time for the ferry? who knows. The repair took less than expected, only a quarter of an hour.
From “S. Teresa” going east, the coast is really beautiful (in fact it is called “Costa Paradiso”). There are climbs and descents, always gentle, and even in February with the wind, you don’t suffer from the cold. This was very heartening. The Elephant rock awaits visitors near Castelsardo. The castle from which to take its name is that of the Doria, the lords of Genoa, built in the 11th century.
From Castelsardo to Porto Torres, where I would have taken the ferry back to Genoa, the road is wider and the landscape more man-made.