Genoa (Genova in Italian) is a big port city located in the northern part of the ligurian sea. It’s the sixth largest Italian city and the busiest harbour.
Its history has been very afflicted: from 1000 to 1800 it never managed to equip itself with a stable ruling class, with consequent both territorial and economic losses.

Portofino is a fishing village famous also for its resorts and the pictoresque harbour. Pliny the Elder, the one who died during vesuvian eruption, referred to Portus Delphini (Port of the Dolphin) as on the Ligurian coast between Genoa and the Gulf of Tigullio.
It has been a very chic location, especially during 60s and 70s.

1) Path
2) What to visit
3) Eating
4) How to get here
5) Notes
6) Photo Gallery
crêuza in Boccadasse

• Path

• What to visit

As usual, 2h after leaving Turin, there’s coffee at Turchino Ovest gas station.
Genoa’s symbol is La Lanterna, one of the oldest and tallest lightouse in the word, finished to built in 1543 as result of the genoese power.
It’s a place i wanted to visit for a long time, but the last occasion in which i’ve been here, on 1.1.17, it was closed (stupid me…).
Visitors can climb 172 steps and adimre exhibits in an adjacent museum of lamps, lenses and related history.
When i climbed it, on october 2018, it was raining and the funniest part was seeing the face of my girlfriend before and after the challenge.

The experience has been quite poor, and the cheap ticket entrance resemble the quality of the facilities. But i keep very good memories of that occasion. Quality does not imply success, only eases it.

Boccadasse is the oldest fisherman village of Genova (the origin of the name comes from the local Asse creek).
It is enclosed in a narrow bay, at the eastern side the cape of Santa Chiara with a castle, on the western side the rocks and the Church of st.Anthony, and in the middle the tiny cobblestones beach where the seamen’s small boats rest.

Boccadasse is also the place in which i ran my best 13k in 4.15.18. 55:39 and 4:15 ‘/km on average. Not so bad, +18% compared to the first in rank and +55% compared to the world record. Here the complete rank

From Genova to Portofino there’s around 1h driving. The base point is the B&B Tre Mari, located in the slope behind the city center, looking the main harbour.
From the hotel

In Portofino it’s possible to admire the little square (expensive and chic), the myriad of shops and the Castello Brown. The latter is a fortified house owned by the consul Montague Yeats-Brown, who gave the place its name.
Continuing on the path, it’s possible to reach the local cool lighthouse, of which you can see here a panorama.

In front of the hotel entrance is passes the path to San Fruttuoso and Portofino Vetta. 16 km, 1000m dsl and 6h long.

The path passes through the typical maquisse. November is the ideal month to perform this path, in the absence of wind.
San Fruttuoso abbey is a small church built by Order of Saint Benedict in Xc and expanded in the next centuries by Doria family. The abbey is located in a small bay beneath a steep wooded hill. It can only be reached by sea or by hiking trails, there is no road access.
The underwater statue Christ of the Abyss was installed in the sea off San Fruttuoso in 1954.
Behind the abbey there are several benches on which you can sit to have your sandwich.

• What to eat

Since the days were rainy, we didn’t walked too much to find the best placed. Rather we decided to follow the advices of the phone and we chose some (good) chinese restaurants, among all.
10.7.18 was perhaps the most caloric day of my life: Run Portofino-S.Margherita –> huge breakfast –> car –> huge hot pot in Milan –> Huge (and expensive) dinner in Turin.
The best dishes i’ve tasted:

  • 炒饭 at Yi Wei Chinese Art Restaurant
  • Homemade breakfast made by indian hosts in our BB in Portofino
  • BIG 火锅 at Little Lamb, in Milan. 90 EUR in 2. Well-spent
  • The best steak i ever ate (from all over the world, including camel steak) at Cot’ Cos, in Turin. 480 EUR for 6 people.

As you can notice i stopped in a couple of place during the return trip, i dindn’t proceed according to a straight line :-).

• Hot to get here

Elba Island is a choice made by pointing the finger in a random way on a kitchen apron (with an Italian map painted on it).
The travel from Turin is quite long: 5h and then you have to consider the ferry (45′). Moby Lines and Toremar are the most frequent boats you can see in the Portoferraio harbour. Tickets on line or on the pier.
From the path

• Notes

The typical mediterrean climate of this area is the ideal for the physical activities you can imagine in the half season. Even if you find a light rain, the temperature will not depress your attitude.

The parking is few and very expensive, i advice the municipal one. The whole is aorund 15 EUR. An alternative could be to leave the car on one side of the main road entering Portofino.
Pay attention to the frequent controls by the policemen: often the cars are too many to be allowed to enter the little city and there’s a sort of skimming.

This trip hasn’t been so cheap: i remember > 200 EUR/night

• Photo gallery

Genova parking

View from Park Calata Gadda


San Fruttuoso Abbey, from the beach in front


On the road to S.Fruttuso, after the first climb

Hotpot Milan

A good hotpot in Milan


Typical street of Boccadasse


Wooden sticks in Cot Cos restaurans. 1 stick = 1 steak.