Capraia Island

Capraia is a little island in the Tyrrhenian, belonging to the Tuscan Archipelago. It’s the third largest after Elba and Giglio islands.
Located at 47 NM from Livorno, one the biggest (and redest) cities of Tuscany (ranked 3rd in that region).

Is worth to spend some words about our first step: Lord Byron caves, near Porto Venere. The town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. Lord Byron was a
Through a narrow opening located in the square in front of the nearby Saint Peter’s church, it is possible to access the cave and to admire its beauty.

Byron

The walk to return to the car is not so eventful: a small climb is required to reach the parking lot (2 km). In the weekend it’s often crowded.

On the road to Livorno there’s a quite beautiful medieval village, Tellaro, at 50′ from Porto Venere, in the other side of the gulf. It’s also available a ferry service, managed by Golfo dei Poeti company (it’s also the name of the gulf of La Spezia: Lord Byron was not the only one swimming in that gulf).

Livorno is quite a crowded city, so i chose to leave the car into a (cheap) parking lot for the 2 nights required. 0.4 €/h is a good deal and it’s also near the port.
In this way you can save more money for a good local dinner.
After a minimal hotel, the Hotel Europa Parking in Via dell’Angiolo, we woke up early and we took the 08:00 ferry towards Capraia island: it’s served by Toremar ferry company and there are 3-4 trips a day in the high season.

Sir Francis Beaufort was not to clement with us: the wind scale was 5, sometimes 6. I tried to read a kindle but after few minutes i had seasickness. Maybe i shouldn.t have eaten that sandwitch 5 minutes before leaving.

Anyway after around 3 hours we were in the island. 500 m from the landing there’s a small camping, not so well maintained but quite clean.
The tent has been mounted in a record time, just after the appetite returned. We went to Il Pigghiolo restaurant, for a casual lunch with hamburger, chips potatoes and beer.

30′ break for digesting and let’s go! from the San Nicola church we attack the path to Monte Cancelle, the Stagnone, Monte delle Penne and the old penal colony.

Here is the GPX chart of our climb.

Click title to show track
Capraia

In 5 h we can admire a beautiful late afternoon at about 400 m asl and with the strong wind that, now, is no more annoying.

After a good shower in the decent camping showers, we had a fish based dinner at La Garitta restaurant.
(ED) A “garritta” is a small building designed to protect the sentinel of a military facility from the elements.

The night passed without problems, the tent mixed with our sleeping bags was the best solution for cost, weight, warmth and comfort. Even the humidity of the night didn’t bother us.

Col castello

The day after, an early sun made the tent too hot to sleep, and at 0730 we’re just walking towards the port in order to find somthing to eat. The search fails so we climb to the old town and we have our breakfast after a satisfactory visit to the big port tower (built in XVI c.) and to the castle.

We had breakfast and lunch in the same place (Ristorante bar Centrale) but we hadn’t a great experience, so i’ll drop this part.

Zurletto

Just before coming back to the ferry, that usually leaves at 1200, we visited the Zurletto cove, just 20′ south of the heliport.

The sea this time was quite calm, so no problem concerning the stomach. 3 h of ferry, a break to the COOP of Livorno and 3.5 h of driving and we were back to Turin. In time for the next work day.

If you want the ultimate, you’ve got to be willing to pay the ultimate price.

Bodhi, Point Break (1991)

I have to spend some time working, if I want to have fun ☺

ferry Port 1 Port 2
View leaving the island Port from the old town Fisherman houses
Gonfiare Test
Strong girl Tent professional testing
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